French Fridays with Dorie
Olive Oil Ice Cream
I hope you will pardon my brevity as I begin posting a few French Friday’s with Dorie assignments over the next few days. I’ll start with this week’s assignment and go backwards.
I knew the idea of olive oil ice cream would seem a bit odd to the people I would end up sharing it with later. So of course I made it anyway. Or perhaps I made it because of this. I do like pushing the culinary envelope now and then and if this was going to be a stretch at least it had 1/2 cup of sugar and 2 teaspoons of vanilla to help it go down.
The recipe itself is a pretty straightforward cooked custard vanilla ice cream that subs in 1/2 cup of olive oil instead of some of the dairy. See how easy it is to be as chic as Paris’ L’Avant-Goût from where Dorie got her inspiration?
The real chic approach to this dessert is in how you serve it and since I was aping L’Avant-Goût I decided to drizzle some lemon olive oil over the top and a few grains of fluer de sel. Great idea. The salt brought up the subtle olive notes in the ice cream and with the oil’s peppery finish left a slight sweet/heat after flavor that drove home the point that this was not your usual vanilla ice cream.
Tomorrow night we are drizzling balsamic vinegar and strawberries over it.
(with Lemon Infused Olive Oil and Fluer de Sel) adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table
This is what you will need:
- 2 cups whole milk
- 1 cup cream
- 5 large egg yolks
- 1/2 cup sugar
- pinch of flour de del
- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- Lemon infused olive oil (for drizzling)
- fluer de sel
This is how you make it:
- Bring the milk and cream to a boil in a medium sauce pan.
- While it is heating up whip the egg yolks and sugar with a whisk until very well blended and slightly thickened.
- While whisking rapidly the yolks slowly pour in roughly 1/3 of the milk mixture.
- Once the eggs have absorbed the milk mixture you can whisk in the remaining milk/cream a little more quickly.
- Add the salt and then pour the mixture back into the saucepan.
- Heat up the mixture over a medium heat while stirring with a wooden spoon until thickened.
- Custard will be done when you can leave a track when you drag your finger across the back of a wooden spoon.
- Remove the pan from the heat and pour the custard through a strainer into a medium bowl.
- Add the olive oil and the vanilla and stir until thoroughly mixed.
- Chill the mixture 4 hours or overnight and then freeze according to your ice cream maker’s instructions.
- To serve, put two scoops in a cup and drizzle a small amount of the lemon infused olive oil over the top and then a slight pinch of fluer de sel.
Dorie suggests using a fruity olive oil without a peppery finish. I disagreed so I used a very fruity olive oil with a distinct peppery finish. If L’Avant-Goût’s version can stand up to caramelized olives then then you can bet yours can handle a peppery finish. In fact, where I to do this one again I would steep the milk in black peppercorns to give it even more heat and kick.
I would bet that many who tried this ice cream thought the flavor was a bit too subtle and I would pretty much agree. Next time I will cut the vanilla too.